Yesterday was international museum day so we got into the Arheološki Muzej (Archeological Museum) and the Muzej Za Umjetnost I Obrt (Arts and Crafts Museum) free. In the latter the photograph of a hand slamming down on a wooden table entitled ‘Revolt’ caught my imagination.

It was much later when we were on our final train journey from Zagreb to Split that I realised why the image had stayed with me. After a six and a half hour journey during which we travelled through hundreds of kilometres of farmland, forest and mountains, we witnessed for at least an hour, the desolation of a vast area centred around Knin.

Here, in the early 90’s, the Yugoslav People’s Army had evicted Croats from their homes in what became known as ethnic cleansing. All that is left now is kilometre after kilometre of empty, broken buildings and deserted fields.

We both sensed the sadness of that war and it’s legacy in the lives of ordinary people.