The day began wending our way through the narrow streets of what used to be the Roman emperor Diocletian’s palace in Split, built for his retirement in 305AD. It is said we have him to thank for being the originator of the concept of retirement.

The palace was abandoned at the end of the Ancient Roman era and within its walls a town developed. The buildings of that time are pretty much what you see today.

From the 7th century the town became a sanctuary for those fleeing conflict or persecution in the surrounding area.

We loved the tiny chapel built into the sentries’ walkway above the Golden Gate. It is beautifully simple with a lovely acoustic (we sang Ubi Caritas a chant from the Taizé community).

We admired the recycling of the head of one of the twelve black granite sphinges from ancient Egypt that once guarded the emperor’s tomb but which had been purloined to poke out of the wall of someone’s kitchen!